What Did You Do To Your Busa, Today?

[TonyM995]

@greg3852 absolutely beautiful shock!!! Good choice.

I’m also re wiring my bike from scratch and have been researching this a lot.

I’d suggest researching more about soldier in Motorsport applications. It’s not recommended because the vibration will break the wire next to the soldier and the soldier stays in place.
Cody Phillips talks about soldier here:

For harness material I’ll probably buy this to protect from abrasion and engine heat. Plus it comes in very small diameter.

High-Temp Fiberglass Sheathing

Fiberglass based sheathing that is saturated with a high temperature resin provides thermal protection for wire looms, HT leads, and even individual cable. Rated to 1,200°F Cuts cleanly with scissors (no fraying) Ideal for extra protection on leads near manifolds and exhaust systems (Lambda...

racespeconline.com

Tesa tape for junctions and odds/ends.

Tesa TS51036.7 Anti-Abrasion Wire Harness Tape | Waytek

Tesa TS51036.7 Anti-Abrasion Wire Harness Tape, Black, PV7, 19mm x 25M provides superior protection and flexibility of small diameter harnesses. In stock, ready to ship. Order today!

www.waytekwire.com

I bought wire from a local race car shop that was very reasonably priced. Definitely use Motorsport wire!

The race shop also have power and ground blocks like this guy TPS fab used. Your configuration sounds similar.

I had a busy day but I got the airbox off and main relay installed. I’ll shorten the power cable and wanted to buy it a bit long to start.

 

[13B-RX3]

Santa made an early stop this year!

 

[greg3852]

@greg3852 absolutely beautiful shock!!! Good choice.

I’m also re wiring my bike from scratch and have been researching this a lot.

I’d suggest researching more about soldier in Motorsport applications. It’s not recommended because the vibration will break the wire next to the soldier and the soldier stays in place.
Cody Phillips talks about soldier here:

For harness material I’ll probably buy this to protect from abrasion and engine heat. Plus it comes in very small diameter.

High-Temp Fiberglass Sheathing

Fiberglass based sheathing that is saturated with a high temperature resin provides thermal protection for wire looms, HT leads, and even individual cable. Rated to 1,200°F Cuts cleanly with scissors (no fraying) Ideal for extra protection on leads near manifolds and exhaust systems (Lambda...

racespeconline.com

Tesa tape for junctions and odds/ends.

Tesa TS51036.7 Anti-Abrasion Wire Harness Tape | Waytek

Tesa TS51036.7 Anti-Abrasion Wire Harness Tape, Black, PV7, 19mm x 25M provides superior protection and flexibility of small diameter harnesses. In stock, ready to ship. Order today!

www.waytekwire.com

I bought wire from a local race car shop that was very reasonably priced. Definitely use Motorsport wire!

The race shop also have power and ground blocks like this guy TPS fab used. Your configuration sounds similar.

I had a busy day but I got the airbox off and main relay installed. I’ll shorten the power cable and wanted to buy it a bit long to start.
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View attachment 1659058

Love the work you are doing. Keep us updated with pics. I'm really enjoying your build. I do however have to inform you that I also hate you. You are now costing me more money as I have to get those power and ground blocks. I think motorcycling needs to stop trying to go on their own. There is much more money and better products being made by aftermarket car racing manufacturers than ALL the aftermarket bike manufacturers combined. Gotta start using what is already made rather than trying to reinvent the wheel. LOVE IT!! This is exactly what we need here.

 

[greg3852]

Auctmarts

Keep us updated on how it goes. I may buy a set to ride with and put my oem away.

 

[13B-RX3]

Keep us updated on how it goes. I may buy a set to ride with and put my oem away.

I definitely will.!

 

[LuapSouthFlorida]

Not too exciting, I brought it inside, pulled the ECU and shipped it out to Chris, and left for Syracuse to have Christmas with family and friends. Merry Christmas y'all

 

[sixpack577]

You need to disconnect the negative battery cable when removing or installing an ecu, to prevent damage from static electricity.

 

[TonyM995]

Love the work you are doing. Keep us updated with pics. I'm really enjoying your build. I do however have to inform you that I also hate you. You are now costing me more money as I have to get those power and ground blocks. I think motorcycling needs to stop trying to go on their own. There is much more money and better products being made by aftermarket car racing manufacturers than ALL the aftermarket bike manufacturers combined. Gotta start using what is already made rather than trying to reinvent the wheel. LOVE IT!! This is exactly what we need here.

Hahaha sorry man! I agree. Also I’m going to try and find some of the cheap corrugated looming locally and use that where the harness goes across the valve covers. The factory uses it and I think it’s a good solution. I’ll still use the looming material I posted above and just put that loom inside the corrugated stuff just as the factory did.

I haven’t started buying harness supplies yet but if you have a good place online let me know. I’ll get the harness material that can be cut with scissors from Race-Spec Online but for the crimpers and everything else I will probably use Waytek.

You need to disconnect the negative battery cable when removing or installing an ecu, to prevent damage from static electricity.

Yes!!! I can’t recall which manual I was reading (either the service manual or Fueltech) but it definitely said damage can occur if you don’t remove the negative battery cable before unplugging the ecu. It seems silly but I’m not taking any chances.

 

[LuapSouthFlorida]

You need to disconnect the negative battery cable when removing or installing an ecu, to prevent damage from static electricity.

Yeah I disco the + then the - before I took the ECU out
Those wires are just the battery tender wires
Thx
Paul

 

[TonyM995]

Six Pack suggested removing the negative cable first and MSD suggests the same.

 

[HayaWakened]

I swapped out the stock cans on my recently-acquired '08 with a set of previously-enjoyed Yoshimura R77 slip-ons from member busaziggy. The weight-loss alone was worth it, the aesthetic improvement and sound are icing on the cake!

#YoshLife

The R77s on my '14 came from @GAmedic a couple years back
It's a single now but ...
+1 weight loss, aesthetics, sound

 

[LuapSouthFlorida]

Six Pack suggested removing the negative cable first and MSD suggests the same.

View attachment 1659115

Thank you, I had it backwards. Will do it that way going forward

 

[greg3852]

Mocked up my dash today. Two gauges on either side. Gear indicator on left. Drilled out the hole for the usb port. I have the exact one on my Harley Ultra. Love it. Turns on by a button under the waterproof cover. Had two usb 3.0 under it. And voltage display.

Next up paint.

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

All I did was give her a pat on her fine behind! On February 4th she’ll be 17 years old! Doesn’t look it though.

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

Not that I’ll ever sell it but used bike buyers look for something just like it. I would too.

 

[LuapSouthFlorida]

Thank you, I had it backwards. Will do it that way going forward

Not too exciting, I brought it inside, pulled the ECU and shipped it out to Chris, and left for Syracuse to have Christmas with family and friends. Merry Christmas y'all

View attachment 1659101

View attachment 1659102

View attachment 1659103

Wow!!!!
I shipped out my ECU on Monday and already (Wednesday) it's on the way back, flashed.
That's some FAST turnaround
Thanks Chris (www.mooremafia.com)

 

[Berteric.]

Not that I’ll ever sell it but used bike buyers look for something just like it. I would too.

That’s right sir, keep it stock… makes it even rare

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

That’s right sir, keep it stock… makes it even rare

I suppose it is. Not that the LEs are special, essentially just paint and badging, but Suzuki probably did make fewer LEs than other models and 2006 was the final year for Gen 1 LEs. 2007 didn’t have a LE. Whatever I have changed, Throttlemeister, Buell pegs, HeliBars, brake rotors, reflectors, fuel tank cap and a (not available anymore) rear rotor RoadLok device, I’ve kept all the original parts. I also have a pristine set of OEM cans that I bought years ago.

Looking at the sticker it’s actually (been) a Hayabusa this month, 17 years ago, being assembled in December of 2005. I bought it new with 4 miles on it a couple months later on February 4th, 2006. Sure been a great bike with about 75,000 miles so far thru 11 states. It’s always been a runner too, dynoed at just over 160 at the wheel.

 

[TonyM995]

Well it’s 16 below zero outside and I’m working today but later I’ll be continuing my quest to have a Fueltech on my Gen 3.

It’s been hard to focus- I got Covid a month ago and am still feeling sick.

I started this with zero knowledge of basic electricity. I have a pile of connectors that aren’t labeled, several un terminated harnesses, relay, Davis driveshaft sensor x2, and a lot more. I have no clue where or how to mount the Davis driveshaft sensors.

Muay Thai kickboxing is another hobby of mine and it’s helpful to take out my aggression on a heavy bag. Set a glove in the picture for fun and I love those gloves.

I’m reading the manuals and am drawing out a wiring diagram, on paper, to plan out the harness. I’ve asked David Luguori for a call to give me an overview on how to plan everything out and for some help in general. That should help me get going and I need to order harnessing supplies still.

Just want to share and if anyone has wiring knowledge or suggestions I’m all ears!! I’m probably going to stoke some old threads as I have better questions.

My first attempt that I’ll do over and will also have multiple pages so I can understand what I’ve drawn because this is terrible hahaha

 

[greg3852]

Got the painted top cover ready to go. Looks much better in black imho.