What Did You Do To Your Busa, Today?

[Kiwi Rider]

I got off my lazy behind and did a couple things today.
I got rid of my "trailer park/ghetto" tag holder....

View attachment 1628079

Yup,zip ties,from the guy who works on bikes alot. Hey,I didn't say I was good at it. View attachment 1628086
Anyway that was just temporary...and so is what I did today. (waiting on a part to arrive for final plate/tag placement but thru this together for the mean time. Big thanks to member @Tb3 for the LED tag light. It'll be on my permanent holder. Thanks Bro.

Just some flat bar twisted and bent to the right shape...

View attachment 1628080

just about invisible eh...plate looks like it's floating...and with Tb3's light,it's legal.

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I've been wanting to trick up my gauges (clocks for all you European bastids, ) and I finally decided on these. They go nicely with my flames/skulls/spikes/death/goth theme thing that I have going on.
Went from this...

View attachment 1628082

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To....click here....



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Well that not a very good pic...
I'll try for a better one,DOH!
Rubb.

What the . . . ??
Where did you get the face dials from, how much, and did you install them???
They look very very snazzy!
Nice one bro, by the way, can you gimme a link to where you got the radar detector LED setup you have on top of your awesome dash (we call the dash " the Office"
here in Godzone (NZ)

 

[rubbersidedown]

What the . . . ??
Where did you get the face dials from, how much, and did you install them???
They look very very snazzy!
Nice one bro, by the way, can you gimme a link to where you got the radar detector LED setup you have on top of your awesome dash (we call the dash " the Office"
here in Godzone (NZ)

1. What the fug...
2. Ebay.$60 bucks. Yes,I installed. (don't buy this exact type,horrible fitment)
3.Thank you
4. That is not a radar detector.It is a rather expensive ($200USD) programable shift light from MSD. On top sits a deadly accurate digital tach. It goes up in incriments of ten. So in my case the stock tach reads about 1100 RPM the actual motor RPM could be 1080.

The gauge face plates appear to be high quality Greg,they are thick,grafx are awesome with a lot of styles to choose from,but fitment is fuggin horrible. They also require needle removal...not an' issue for you as if I were you...(I wish...

) I would buy the type that require no needle removal only available for Gen I clocks. (we call 'em gauges) LOL. I was excited to install these until I laid them on top of the stock ones. All the holes for needles and attachment screws don't line-up exactly and the resting needles and max. needles on the stock clocks don't fit these swanky new ones. I have installed faceplates on gen I's and 2's...these are NOT, plug n' play.
The last time I did Gen I clocks boss...they were fairly easy and I ordered them with white faces and
a 340KPH speedo. They looked good.

Hope all that drivel helps you out.
Rubb,

 

[rubbersidedown]

Oh sorry @Kiwi Rider the MSD looks like this...

The tach on top is visible thru the windscreen for tuning,adjustment,etc.
Rubb.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Some guys here will remember when my fuel pump fuse blew, and I was scratching my head as to what the cause of that dead short in that circuit was most likely gonna be.
Well, today, weeks after that happened, it happened again.....but this time I figured out what actually caused it!
I was holding the idle speed adjuster/cable (Gen 1 with cable operated idle speed adjustment) and the metal end of it touched the holding bracket and I saw a spark.. then the bike died.. blown fuse AGAIN!!
Turns out, the throttle bodies are live (battery voltage) and and adjuster cable is also live coz it’s contact connected to the throttle body.
So logic follows that the fuel pump positive wire is somehow touching the external fuel pump housing, which is bolted to the pump and the throttle bodies.
I’ve already spent hours on it replacing shims for valve clearances, replaced both cam bearings, so now I’ve gotta go tear apart the fuel pump.. which means another few hours of investigation and repair work.. and then, and only THEN it will be ready to go into active duty and into service as my trusty ol’ Busa!
Ya gotta love these bikes, soooooo cool.
Worth all the blood sweat n tears.
I will keep y’all posted as to the outcome and solution to this ‘ saga ‘ lol.
These pics are after surgery, lookin good, all vital signs are strong!

 

[rubbersidedown]

Some guys here will remember when my fuel pump fuse blew, and I was scratching my head as to what the cause of that dead short in that circuit was most likely gonna be.
Well, today, weeks after that happened, it happened again.....but this time I figured out what actually caused it!
I was holding the idle speed adjuster/cable (Gen 1 with cable operated idle speed adjustment) and the metal end of it touched the holding bracket and I saw a spark.. then the bike died.. blown fuse AGAIN!!
Turns out, the throttle bodies are live (battery voltage) and and adjuster cable is also live coz it’s contact connected to the throttle body.
So logic follows that the fuel pump positive wire is somehow touching the external fuel pump housing, which is bolted to the pump and the throttle bodies.

So you've got hot TB's...thats a new one. And because the TB's are suspended between the intakes and the airbox the early idle adjust it the short. You would think that a wire in the positive circuit for the pump shorting against the TB's would be easy to spot. I know the adjuster cable you are speaking of because I also enjoyed an' early Busa (first one was a 2000) myself. Many a late night in my shop figuring out those issues with little help.Was pretty much on my own as Busa's were fairly new,extremely rare in these parts and not many people were working on them.

There is so little exposed metal on the idle speed adjust cable its quite freakish that it is the conductive culprit. Most of it is covered in plastic and even where it mounts to the bracket is plastic...odd.

Blue would be the exposed conductive parts. Orange is where it mounts to the frame,in theory,non-conductive.
I'm sure you'll get it sorted pronto.Curious as to what you find.
Rubb.

 

[mabupa]

All I did to mine was cry While sitting on it. Is been on a tender for the last few months and I decided to at least warm the bikes up today. Concours started right up, but busa is dead. She has good voltage, fuel pump primes and headlight turns off when I press the switch, but no crank. Now I’ll have to take the fairings off and start troubleshooting. Wondering if it has something to do with my alarm system. I’ll never let my baby sit unloved for this long again.

 

[rubbersidedown]

All I did to mine was cry While sitting on it. Is been on a tender for the last few months and I decided to at least warm the bikes up today. Concours started right up, but busa is dead. She has good voltage, fuel pump primes and headlight turns off when I press the switch, but no crank. Now I’ll have to take the fairings off and start troubleshooting. Wondering if it has something to do with my alarm system. I’ll never let my baby sit unloved for this long again.

Batt shows good voltage,but may not be strong enuff. Just try jumping it from yer Kawi. You haven't done anything silly like I would have you? Not pulled the clutch lever etc...
Rubb.

 

[HayaWakened]

All I did to mine was cry While sitting on it. Is been on a tender for the last few months and I decided to at least warm the bikes up today. Concours started right up, but busa is dead. She has good voltage, fuel pump primes and headlight turns off when I press the switch, but no crank. Now I’ll have to take the fairings off and start troubleshooting. Wondering if it has something to do with my alarm system. I’ll never let my baby sit unloved for this long again.

I've got a similar developing problem. Same symptoms. Pump primes, light on, and nothing at start, even though light goes off during depress. I thought it was the LiFo battery, pulled it, charged it, started right up. 2 days later, started right up. Day after that, no start, same symptoms. But after repeated start attempts it decides to start again...something is loose - or dirty - somewhere

Coincidentally, the bike sat uncovered through a pretty nasty dust storm prior to prob , so I'm thinking a dusted connect somewhere. Troubleshooting begins tomorrow.

 

[mabupa]

Batt shows good voltage,but may not be strong enuff. Just try jumping it from yer Kawi. You haven't done anything silly like I would have you? Not pulled the clutch lever etc...
Rubb.

I tried a jumper box and nothing.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

After hearing Bryan has sold RJ, I went out to the garage and told my baby I will never leave him or forsake him, or . . . SELL him to someone else.
Spent 30 minutes looking at and talking to him, sob, I love that little guy lol.

 

[mabupa]

I've got a similar developing problem. Same symptoms. Pump primes, light on, and nothing at start, even though light goes off during depress. I thought it was the LiFo battery, pulled it, charged it, started right up. 2 days later, started right up. Day after that, no start, same symptoms. But after repeated start attempts it decides to start again...something is loose - or dirty - somewhere

Coincidentally, the bike sat uncovered through a pretty nasty dust storm prior to prob , so I'm thinking a dusted connect somewhere. Troubleshooting begins tomorrow.

I have one of those shorai batteries and odd enough, it says discharged below 50%, even though, it’s been on the charger this hole time. I have a new old school battery new in the box, so might try that one.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

I tried a jumper box and nothing.

I think what has happened Miguel, is the starter motor is frozen for whatever reason, check the starter relay first though, check for 12v at both sides of the relay when you push the starter button . . if you have voltage supply to the starter just give the starter a whack with a steel punch and see if it starts cranking, just an idea mate, try it.
If there is no current at the starter when you push the button, you have a sticky relay.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

You are spot on there mate, the metal end of the cable touched the holder bracket because the cable had fallen out of the bracket and I was adjusting the idle without it secured and insulated from ground.
I've got a pretty good idea where to start looking for that short, fuel pump wire where it passes through the rubber insulating grommet in the housing.

 

[mabupa]

I think what has happened Miguel, is the starter motor is frozen for whatever reason, check the starter relay first though, check for 12v at both sides of the relay when you push the starter button . . if you have voltage supply to the starter just give the starter a whack with a steel punch and see if it starts cranking, just an idea mate, try it.
If there is no current at the starter when you push the button, you have a sticky relay.

Thanks for the advice, Greg. I’m off on Monday, so I’ll check it out. I just remembered that when I installed my alarm system, I installed the optional starter disabling relay circuit, so I’ll have to make sure that relay is good too.

 

[HayaWakened]

I have one of those shorai batteries and odd enough, it says discharged below 50%, even though, it’s been on the charger this hole time. I have a new old school battery new in the box, so might try that one.

I'm also gonna look at the clutch kill switch just to see what it looks like (dirt, loose).

Can someone confirm for me this is the switch (at clutch lever) that must engage to crank the engine?

 

[202mphbusa]

Switched back to the OEM tank.
Finished ALL the 100th time, replaced the wiring harness.
which ment rewire EVERYTHING ams1000,zeitronix,tail lights. Tether

Still have to rewire Airshift, but am going to hold off, only three Drag days left on the year.
and am going to replace my old MPS kill with one of the new gen ones with a Schnitz Coil harness
Trying to eliminate soldering more than I have to

 

[rubbersidedown]

I'm also gonna look at the clutch kill switch just to see what it looks like (dirt, loose).

Can someone confirm for me this is the switch (at clutch lever) that must engage to crank the engine?

View attachment 1628330

Yup,thats it Bro. Pretty much un-servicable...maybe blow it out with compressed air if ya want. It either works or it doesn't.
Rubb.

 

[mabupa]

I think what has happened Miguel, is the starter motor is frozen for whatever reason, check the starter relay first though, check for 12v at both sides of the relay when you push the starter button . . if you have voltage supply to the starter just give the starter a whack with a steel punch and see if it starts cranking, just an idea mate, try it.
If there is no current at the starter when you push the button, you have a sticky relay.

Couldn’t wait until tomorrow. Lol! Snuck in the garage while girlfriend was getting her beauty sleep and started tearing things apart. Turned out to be my aftermarket hydraulic clutch switch failing in the “open” position. I took it off and put a jumper wire across and she cranked right away. I’ve always read they don’t run right with clutch switch bypassed, so I shut it off and will order a replacement. Wish I would’ve started there and save myself some work taking the luggage racks and tail apart.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Well, I’ve just torn my fuel pump housing apart to see why the housing was ‘hot’(live 12v) and guess what I found. . .

Looks like when I last stripped it and replaced pump motor and fuel filter, I hadn’t taken enough care to be sure the wires were not pinched as I screwed it back together.
So lesson learned here, and @rubbersidedown , here’s the goods on the situation as you were keen to know why the TB’s were hot 12v.
Easy fix anyway, but it’s just so good to know why that fuel pump circuit fuse blew.
Mystery solved!

 

[mabupa]

Well, I’ve just torn my fuel pump housing apart to see why the housing was ‘hot’(live 12v) and guess what I found. . .
View attachment 1628379
Looks like when I last stripped it and replaced pump motor and fuel filter, I hadn’t taken enough care to be sure the wires were not pinched as I screwed it back together.
So lesson learned here, and @rubbersidedown , here’s the goods on the situation as you were keen to know why the TB’s were hot 12v.
Easy fix anyway, but it’s just so good to know why that fuel pump circuit fuse blew.
Mystery solved!

Some heat shrink should take care of that. Today’s troubleshooting made me realize how much of a mess of wires I have in the tail section. I’ll have to step up My game and wire things up @fallenarch style to clean things up.