What Did You Do To Your Busa, Today?

@mabupa the fan actually draws big on initial wind up. V should then settle back down. There could be a few issues. First I would check for solid grounds at batt/frame. It also sounds like perhaps 1 or 2 cells in yer battery might be dying. Just because a battery registers good static V and there is increased voltage at the battery at +4K RPM doesn't mean the battery is 100%.
On a conventional battery like a Yuasa its better for the battery to sit for a while with the lid off after initializing before putting the juice to it,in case you didn't know.
Upgrading your reg/rec will do nothing in this case IMO.
Rubb.
 
@mabupa the fan actually draws big on initial wind up. V should then settle back down. There could be a few issues. First I would check for solid grounds at batt/frame. It also sounds like perhaps 1 or 2 cells in yer battery might be dying. Just because a battery registers good static V and there is increased voltage at the battery at +4K RPM doesn't mean the battery is 100%.
On a conventional battery like a Yuasa its better for the battery to sit for a while with the lid off after initializing before putting the juice to it,in case you didn't know.
Upgrading your reg/rec will do nothing in this case IMO.
Rubb.
At this point, battery has been ruled out. The shorai did this, the new yuasa That sat for the recommended 60mins after adding the juice, before putting it to charge at the recommended 1.25amps for 5 to 10hrs, Did it as well and also my other known good battery that works perfect on the Kawi acts the same way. I’ll be looking at the grounds and wiring as a whole, like you mentioned.
 
the fan actually draws big on initial wind up. V should then settle back down.
Rubb.

@mabupa is the fan moving freely? A check for coincidence in case it got a rock or bent shroud on that last return home. To Rubb's point if jammed up the load may stay excessive.

Have you tried a short circuit test (parasitic draw, leakage or bad prostate test, everyone OEM has a weird name for it.) If > 3 mA /.003A that would be "good" news as pulling fuses would identify the offending circuit.

Did that alarm require tapping existing wiring? Is that a recent upgrade? Taps are always a good place to start looking for shorts.
 
@mabupa is the fan moving freely? A check for coincidence in case it got a rock or bent shroud on that last return home. To Rubb's point if jammed up the load may stay excessive.

Have you tried a short circuit test (parasitic draw, leakage or bad prostate test, everyone OEM has a weird name for it.) If > 3 mA /.003A that would be "good" news as pulling fuses would identify the offending circuit.

Did that alarm require tapping existing wiring? Is that a recent upgrade? Taps are always a good place to start looking for shorts.
I walked away from it for a couple of days and got back at it this morning. After taking more things apart, my memory was “refreshed” as to how I had wired everything. The voltmeter is on switched 12v via the accessory harness Behind the nose. I had put a “contact block” and hooked a couple of other small electronics there and the system Was not happy. Is not popping fuses, but the draw brings the voltage down to were the voltmeter starts alerting me and if I hook a meter straight to the battery, there is a 1-1.5volt difference between the two, so the reading I was going off of was not accurate and reading close enough to low limit, That the fan draw was triggering the low voltage alert. Alarm was installed years ago, but some quick testing showed all is well with it. I need to clean up and label things for future troubleshooting, so I ran to the nearest store and picked up a label maker and also will install a fuzeblock. The plan is to label everything, run thicker wire straight from the battery to the nose (that’s were this “fuzeblock” will live) to feed this new module and use the accessory connector simply as a “trigger”, so its only job will be to activate the relay. This should improve things. I’m cheap for some things and paying for these fancy fuse holder contraptions is one of them. I find these little gadgets stupid expensive at $100 shipped, but finally broke down and got it. Is nice to have constant 12v and switched all in one compact little box.

On another note. The oem clutch switch arrived and I took a similar approach to what @fallenarch shared on one of his posts. Made a little bracket for the switch and made a little tab to activate it every time I pull clutch lever in. Still needs some work and black paint so it blends in better, but I’m making progress.

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Got a great deal on RJ’s old Russell seat, so swapped my terry’s custom seat for the Russell and looking forward to seeing how one feels compared to the other. I’ll sell one of them after seeing which one my backside likes better. have to say though, terry’s looks better than the Russell and I also noticed the “wings” are positioned differently between the two.

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Spilled some hot oil on my exhaust pipes as I switched from 20w-50 to 10w-40 for the winter. Foil on the pipes was blown off by the wind. Magnet in the oil filter housing and on the drain showed NO visible pieces of metal :banana: but did have a lot of fine, gritty powder. I would've taken some pics, but I was coming off of a 16hr shift so...F that, lol.
 
Cleaned the front sprocket area. I no longer use chain wax so it wasn't too bad
Flushed the clutch. Used a MityVac. Not impressed:
  • Why put the vacuum (pressure) release lever on the bottom of the pump where it's easy for me to accidentally grab it and release all the buildup - and where it accidentally releases the buildup when I set the pump down so I can monitor fluid reservoir level??
  • Those adapters that are supposed to fit over the bleeder valve must be made for a sky crane or something larger than an Amazon warehouse. I ditched those and used some of my own tubing
Of course, this is my first time ever flushing a hydraulic clutch, first use with the Vac. The bike still shifts up n down thru all the gears. Isn't that all I care about after flushing the clutch, or am I missing something?
 
I've went on a lengthier ride with my new saddle bags. They worked out pretty good! They aren't very large, but it keeps me from having to carry a small backpack every time I ride!

Loving my new tank bag too! It's very spacious!

So glad to have done those two storage upgrades to my Busa! Now I might just need to get a tail bag that sits behind the rear seat, so I can still have a passenger!
 
What do you need for a day ride, even two up? Tank bags work well and even a smallish to medium size that expands actually holds quite a bit. Riding solo a 22” seat bag over the rear seat stows enough gear for a couple weeks and is no wider than you are. I use my tank bag as a cooler for water and sodas and snacks. You may gather that I’m not a fan of large off the rear tail bags. :laugh:
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