I think you knew what it was before separating the housing,you were on the right track forsure. I had an' inkling too. Good final diagnosis.
Rubb.
What Did You Do To Your Busa, Today?
- Thread starter SoCal Blur
- Start date
Rubb.
New driven TT rearsets installed. Not sure how I feel about losing my rear brake light... trying to decide whether I want to switch them out, rig the light to work or leave as is since the only time I use the rear brake without the front brake is when I’m sitting stopped at lights and such.
@Klutch556 those rear sets look tuff man. Maybe they are considered "Race-Only" and thats why they have no provision for the stock brake light switch.
Made in the U.S.A. I'm jealous...I gots da Chinese one's...
Rubb.
Maybe they are considered "Race-Only" and thats why they have no provision for the stock brake light switch.Made in the U.S.A. I'm jealous...I gots da Chinese one's...
Rubb.
Hayabusa Wannabe
Registered
Are there issues with using the Driven pressure brake switch?
My guess HW is there is no place to hang the conventional switch like this...
So ya toss the stocker...
...and you "20 buck it" with one of these hydraulic units.
Qwik,easy,needs no mount,just goes on yer stock master.
Rubb.
Is that a hydraulic actuated brake light switch? Who makes it!?My guess HW is there is no place to hang the conventional switch like this...
View attachment 1628410
So ya toss the stocker...
View attachment 1628411
...and you "20 buck it" with one of these hydraulic units.
View attachment 1628412
Qwik,easy,needs no mount,just goes on yer stock master.
Rubb.
Just google,but Vortex has them,FortNine,Woodcraft,etc. ZLots to choose from. I would go trusted before choosing a 12 dolla chinese made off Wish or Amazon.
Rubb.
Rubb.
When ordering from whoever you choose you just need to know the banjo bolt size,which I can't recall off hand,its prolly 10 X 1.00MM or 10 X 1.25MM. I'll get you an answer...somebody in the know may chime in prior to that.
Rubb.
10 X 1.25MM
Rubb.
Rubb.
Hayabusa Wannabe
Registered
TAP TAP TAP
Is this thing on? LOL
One option in case you want to further patronize Driven:
www.drivenracing.com
Is this thing on? LOL
One option in case you want to further patronize Driven:
Driven Racing | Metal That Moves You
www.drivenracing.com
*Tap* *Tap* *Tap*...TAP TAP TAP
Is this thing on? LOL
One option in case you want to further patronize Driven:
Driven Racing | Metal That Moves You
awesome...IDK HW...I'm guessing he thought the rear sets would be plug n play. They rarely are. You end up needing longer springs (brake light),longer shift arms,etc. Sometimes these things are included in the kit. Sometimes.
Rubb.
They were pretty much plug and play. Just had to unplug the brake light switch and chop 1/4” off the shift rod.*Tap* *Tap* *Tap*...
IDK HW...I'm guessing he thought the rear sets would be plug n play. They rarely are. You end up needing longer springs (brake light),longer shift arms,etc. Sometimes these things are included in the kit. Sometimes.
Rubb.
Hayabusa Wannabe
Registered
@rubbersidedown Haha why I said that:
Since @Klutch556 has Driven rearsets I asked about the Driven-brand switch which is hydraulic. You responded to me providing a (great) detailed explanation, and suggesting hydraulic switches.
I felt ignored. Sad. Lonely. LOL (But I can see my post was too cryptic and assumptive and thus I caused it.)
Since @Klutch556 has Driven rearsets I asked about the Driven-brand switch which is hydraulic. You responded to me providing a (great) detailed explanation, and suggesting hydraulic switches.
I felt ignored. Sad. Lonely. LOL (But I can see my post was too cryptic and assumptive and thus I caused it.)
Cool. They look awesome man.
Sad and lonely...never,not on here. We love you man.
Rubb.
You’re never ignored here cutie!!!
Tetsuo1000
Registered
Get a room!
My clutch switch did not need replacing ... yet. Just a quick cleaning.
To test for wanky switch, I depressed and held start switch in, then played with the clutch lever (actually the clutch switch's engage point was what I was after) until it began to crank. That's how I knew it was the switch. @rubbersidedown was correct: some compressed air to blow out the dust. Thanks, Rubb!
To test for wanky switch, I depressed and held start switch in, then played with the clutch lever (actually the clutch switch's engage point was what I was after) until it began to crank. That's how I knew it was the switch. @rubbersidedown was correct: some compressed air to blow out the dust. Thanks, Rubb!
Put the tail section back together and rolled it outside to warm it up. She fired right up, but when it got up to temp and fans kicked on, she started acting funny and I noticed the voltmeter was reading 8volts. I was scratching my head. Pulled it in the garage and decided to prepare and charge my spare battery that was new in the box, since I have never fully trusted the shorai I currently have on the bike, since it’s given me trouble In the past and had to be replaced under warranty. I added the fluid that comes with the yuasa battery and put it to charge overnight, per instructions. Swapped out the battery and started the bike this morning and stayed next to it watching the voltmeter. It was reading 13.1-13.4 V.................. until fans kicked on, at which point, volts dropped to 10-11 volts. I have a rick’s rectifier upgrade I've been meaning to Install, so I’ll put that in, but not sure that’ll fix my problem. I was really bummed, since I was looking forward to riding today.
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