45 Days on a Gen3 Hayabusa - 2023 Pashnit Touring

Stopping at Mono Lake, the largest mountain lake along this route

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Lil nature hike needed after many hours on the bike. Stretch the legs.

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Mono Lake has a super high salinity. The water feels like soap. It's slippery. It has no natural outlet. Water leaves through evaporation leaving all the minerals behind causing the high salinity. There are no fish in Mono Lake that can survive in the highly salty water. Just brine shrimp and flies.

In 1941 the City of Los Angeles extended its aqueduct system into the Mono Basin, diverting water from four of the six mountain streams that feed Mono Lake. Without freshwater from the streams, the lake lost more to evaporation that it gained from inflow. Mono Lake dropped nearly fifty vertical feet, shrank to half of its volume, and doubled in salinity over the next forty years. Miles of newly exposed lake bottom created unhealthy and unsightly dust storms in the windy basin. These drastic changes affected the health of the lake ecosystem, impacting local wildlife and fisheries, migratory birds, and human health.


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The lake is known for the alkali flies that feed off the salt.

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In 1978 a coalition of citizen's groups led by the Mono Lake Committee began to look for solutions to save Mono Lake. Recognizing the scenic and biological values of the lake, they called into question the legality of the city's water diversions. Then in 1983 the State Courts ruled that the Public Trust Doctrine (protecting navigable bodies of water for all citizens) applied to Mono Lake. According to this law, "the human and environmental uses of Mono Lake...deserve to be taken into account. Such uses should not be destroyed because the state mistakenly thought itself powerless to protect them." California Supreme Court, 1983

In 1990 the court ordered that the LA Department of Water and Power's activities must comply with Fish and Game Code laws to protect fisheries in the creeks below the diversion points. To re-evaluate the City's water license, the State Water Resource Control Board collected data and testimony from scientists, citizens, organizations, and agencies. With this information, they then prepared a management plan for Mono Lake.

On September 28, 1994, ten years to the day after Mono Basin was designated as a National Forest Scenic Area, the Board decided that the lake must be raised to an elevation of 6392 feet, which may take 20 years. This is 19 feet higher than in 1994, but 25 feet lower than when diversions began in 1941. All parties agreed to accept the plan and move forward in a spirit of cooperation outside the courts.

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The 2012–2016 California drought lowered the lake 7 feet. The lake level then rose 4.5 feet in 2017, and the lake level held steady in 2018. The 2018 runoff year was classified as Normal, and Mono Lake rose to 6381.9 feet above sea level by March 1, 2019, April 1 is the start of the 2019–2020 runoff year; DWP’s runoff forecast on March 1 was 142% of average. The lake reached 6381 feet in 2020 within 10 feet of the proposed target.

The lake level before the diversions of Mono's tributary streams was 6417 feet above sea level. In 1982, Mono Lake reached its lowest recorded level of lowest recorded elevation of 6372 which exposed 17,300 acres of barren shoreline. The goal is to have the lake reach 6391 feet. (In 1951, the lake level sat at 6410 ft.) Once that occurs, a new set of restrictions apply to water diversions. No diversions will be allowed if the lake drops below 6388 ft.

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The water levels are high this year from the huge amounts of snow last winter. This was a few years (15) back in the same exact spot.

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At the right time of the year, there are billions of these alkali flies. The ground is moving.

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Yup, those are flies.

Walk through this color black and a cloud of alkali flies erupt from the ground. They fly up unconcerned with you and settle back to the shore line more interested in consuming the algae. They line the shoreline and also float on the water. The alkali flies lay their eggs underwater and the larvae hatch, then develop underwater, eventually emerging and walking along the shoreline. The abundance of flies creates an ecosystem feeding off these flies. California Gulls (despite being nowhere near an ocean) are plentiful, feeding off the flies.

Native Americans in the region also consumed the alkali flies as part of their diet.

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All those flies provide some hearty meals for some.

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Tufa Towers (pronounced too-fa) line the walkway to the lake shore and protrude up from the water’s edge, unlike anything you may have seen.
Calcium-rich water bubbling up from underwater springs combine with carbonate-rich water in a chemical reaction, creating the lime-based structures. Tufa towers are easily viewed on the southern shore, and also the western shore north of Lee Vining. The towers can reach a height of 30 feet. The tufa towers were at one time all underwater, but are visible today due to the dramatic drop in the lake level.

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Break over, just up the highway is the 8143 ft Conway Summit along Highway 395, Mono Lake in the distance

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We can go higher. Some more mountain lakes to check out off the main highway

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At Conway Summit is Virginia Lakes Rd, heads up to Virginia Lakes at 9800 ft, just shy of 10,000 ft in elevation. The peak over there is Black Mountain at nearly 12,000 ft.

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Seems like a good place to fish. Fellas out there in their floater inner tubes fishing, just floating the day away.

Peaceful way to spend the day surrounded in this view.

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At Bridgeport, there is one more picturesque mountain lake to check out. This is Twin Lakes.

Every one of these mountain lakes posted up is along this stretch of Highway 395.

See the house? Pretty cool.

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Like fishing? Get your floaty inner tube.

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This would be your view while fishing.

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I don't fish. Perfectly happy with this, my view.

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Rope swing? Just reminds me of all those Fail Vids on YT of the ropes breaking.

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That house. Is this the Swiss Alps? Nope. California.

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Twin Lakes Rd is a gem

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Twin Lakes Rd is a dead end road. It leads to the Mono Village Resort.

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Would you ever know these lakes are back in here if you never got off the main road? Nope. For years, I had no idea till I finally heard about these amazingly scenic lakes right outside Bridgeport.

Bridgeport and Highway 395 at bottom right. About 10 miles into the Sierra Range is Twin Lakes at top left.

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Monitor Pass - Highway 89

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For years, I've been staring at this abandoned fire lookout atop Leviathan Peak every time I rode over Monitor Pass-Highway 89.
How do I get up there?

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For many years, my curiosity gnawed at me. There are no road signs, but it’s obvious there’s a road up there. It took a quick peek on Google Earth to figure out how to get up there. The dirt road to the top of Leviathan Peak is .3 miles from the Monitor Pass summit sign and 1.4 dirt miles to the summit. There is no road sign or any indication this dirt road goes anywhere, but Leviathan Lookout Rd leads up to the fire lookout at 8942 feet, built in 1958. The ride up there on my Z1000 was challenging, but easily accomplished on such a light streetfighter style motorcycle. Riding my new Hayabusa up a rocky high clearance dirt path to the top of the mountain is not something most people would likely choose to do. I questioned my own ambition to ride the Gen3 up this rocky bumpy rutted dirt path.

First rode up there on my Z1000 in few years ago, so I knew what to expect.

Would you take your brand new Hayabusa up this road?

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Busa road?

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I'm committed now. Both feet on the ground all the way, 1st gear all the way up, this bike was not built for this, avoid that big rock, and that one, and that sharp looking one, avoid that huge rut. Super sketchy.

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And it's steep

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Reached a locked gate. Hmm, Busa fits around this locked gate fine. Just don't look down. Drop-off to the right, long way down.

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But I made it with zero issues and lots of patience. 1st gear all the way to the summit.

The reward:

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