Michelin Pilot Road2 // 7,500 miles.

I'm going to pull the bt 21's off the C14 in the next few weeks and mount PR2's. She just turned 1100 (s)miles and I'm starting to get the suspension sorted out. The Connie guys all swear that the PR2's make the C14 handle like a completely different bike.

Just put a PP2 on the front of Masago and like it much better than the Qualifer.
 
I just put a new set on the Busa and the GSXR750 and am looking forward to many happy miles:beerchug: Thanks for the reinforcement:)
 
7,500 miles? Wow! Your front tire still looked like it had plenty o life left.
 
I don't know how you all do it.:bowdown:
I have a Power front and a PR2 rear, the sides or the Power are to the wear bars on the left side and almost on the right. The PR2 rear is cupped so bad on the soft compound part of the sides you can see the scallops from several feet away. The middles of both are probably good for another 1000 miles, which will put the pair at total toast in 4000 miles.


Tom, you need a suspension adjustment. The bike has 3 ways to adjust for these very conditions you are dedscribing. On this site alone, jinkster has had pinned a great place to start. Radical cupping like that is fairly easy to adjust out. The front looses lots o traction capabilities and braking is greatly diminished.
 
7,500 miles? Wow! Your front tire still looked like it had plenty o life left.

:whistle: On the center, yes...the sides were looking like racing slicks. Much like your tires wear...I remember marveling about that on your bike one time last year. Makes the bike actually challenging to ride.

Nuttin' like a new pair 'o' shoes, I say.
 
I'm going to pull the bt 21's off the C14 in the next few weeks and mount PR2's. She just turned 1100 (s)miles and I'm starting to get the suspension sorted out. The Connie guys all swear that the PR2's make the C14 handle like a completely different bike.

Just put a PP2 on the front of Masago and like it much better than the Qualifer.

Russ; you're really diggin' that Connie, aren't you? :beerchug:
 
So the BT016 is supposed to last longer in the center than the BT56 does? I do most of my riding in a straight line and it seems like I'm getting 4500miles out of a rear... would like to get more but not sacrifice safety laying into the corners. Any suggestions?
 
So the BT016 is supposed to last longer in the center than the BT56 does? I do most of my riding in a straight line and it seems like I'm getting 4500miles out of a rear... would like to get more but not sacrifice safety laying into the corners. Any suggestions?

Hey, bro...One of the reasons I'm able to get that many miles out of a tire, I surmise, is the great variety of riding I do. I'm more in the canyons than on the freeway, so I'm able to keep the round profile for far longer.

I cannot speak directly to the 56; never owned them.

While they are decidedly pricier, the Michelins are a fantastic choice.

Add to that, 4,500 miles out of a tire is really noteworthy.

Good luck!
 
This is true. The roads I ride just seem to be pretty straight for the most part. If there are curves I really can't power into them because they are usually pretty crummy pavement. Hmm... a sport touring tire sounds decent.. but I don't really want to create a safety issue because of the HP.
 
So the BT016 is supposed to last longer in the center than the BT56 does? I do most of my riding in a straight line and it seems like I'm getting 4500miles out of a rear... would like to get more but not sacrifice safety laying into the corners. Any suggestions?

The bt-56 is the stock tire. That tire is crap. Slippery and slippery. Any new z-rated tire is an improvement. Those tires have no business being put on the bike stock in the first place.
 
PR-2, it dont the forward bite of some others (have stage 1 turbo) but it does real well in the twistys, have had it to the Dragon several times, but for long distance ware its got 5K on it and still looks like I put it on a couple of weeks ago
 
Real good feedback buddy, getting ready to purchase new tires for CZ Wheels and it is down to Pilot Road 2 and Storms. Looking at my riding style thinking to try the Avon Storms would suit me best. But honestly liked the way the PR2 felt on Wasabi. Just don't have the canyon roads here.
 
I've been ridin the PP2's and 2ct's for a couple years now and they have been "beddy beddy good 2 me. "

How are the pilot roads in the twisties? What diff if any would I notice, what about 150mph + ? ???
 
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on cool pavement you CAN break the rear end loose with road 2's...did it today in a shaded corner, upper 60's.

overall handle fine in the twisties...i was very pleased at the dragon last year.

i have had them over 150 MANY times...no issues...
 
Good info! Thanks!

I've heard tons of good things about the Michelin Pilot Road 2 and this info seems to support it! I've run Michelins for quite some time and they've always done me well! Thanks again!

Another quick question- I have Michelin Pilot Power 2CTs, front and rear. The rear tire has been on for about 2 1/2 years, but only has approximately 4000 miles :down: and looks good. Is 2 1/2 years on a garage kept Busa (although hot temps, Las Vegas, NV, ya know) too long for a tire, regardless of mileage on the tire? Should I replace this tire just because of age alone? I guess the question is, mileage and wear aside, when has too much time passed and you should replace the tire? Just curious.
 
it is likely just fine unless it shows signs of cracking or dry rotting... if you see ANY cracking on the sidewall, time for a new tire.

otherwise, imho, as long as it looks good, rides good, has decent tread, and holds air...you are likely good to go.

if you are getting 4000 miles out of pilot power NON-roads...that is quite a feat!
 
First let me say that I'm shocked to read that any rear tire has been on a Hayabusa for over two years! Even my Hondas require more frequent tire changes. Check the manufacture date on the tire and add that to the 2 & 1/2 years its been on the bike. How old is it now? But to answer your question, at 4,000 miles if its not too old, and if the tread is good, any tire kept in the shade should be fine even in hot weather. Check it for heat cracks around the rim and air it up and if it hasn't been ridden (sitting on the tires) you may find a temporary flat spot you'll have to ride out.
 
Thanks for the input. Yeah, I'm pretty embarassed to admit that I've only put on 4000 miles over the past several years (may actually be closer to 3000 miles), hence the sad face icon on the previous post. .
I thought that I read some where that the oils in a tire can evaporate over time, compromising the integrity of the tire and that this compromise would not be visible. Does this sound correct?
Thanks again.
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Tom, you need a suspension adjustment. The bike has 3 ways to adjust for these very conditions you are dedscribing. On this site alone, jinkster has had pinned a great place to start. Radical cupping like that is fairly easy to adjust out. The front looses lots o traction capabilities and braking is greatly diminished.

It's the rear that's cupping. I use the term "cupping" for lack of a better term. At every tread sipe (groove) the front of the tread block is worn front to back where it turns up a lip on the very back edge of the block at the next groove. I think it has something to do with throttle application at the soft compound lean angle.
Front is fine, no cupping at all, just an inch and a half of the sides starting from about 1/4" from the edges up toward the center are almost wore out.
We have a lot of rough "chip 'n seal" roads around here, good grip but rough on tires. Well, good grip except where the "seal" has oozed up through the "chip", those sections can be very greasy.
Next time I get the Busa out I'll take some pictures of the tire wear patterns, post 'em, and see what everyone thinks is going on.:thumbsup:
 
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