Thanks Spudly! I wish ya lived closer too..enjoy shrek tonight...i'll be alright one way or the other...our local HD dealership is having a memorial day special...ther're giving away a free enclosed HD bike trailer with every new bike purchased..already talked to a salesman about trading ORen in on a new black flamed out Deuce.(Spudley @ May 27 2007,14:49) The air sensors, and not in this case an o2 sensor, tell the ecu to make the micro adjustments. The coolant temp sensor tells it to make the macro adjustments that keep the stoichiometric balance, in balance. I'd just like to see Bill get this sorted out so he can use one remaining day. Remember, it wouldn't spin to infinity, or where ever float is, if it was a tooth off, you'd notice something, or have hurt something by now. If the TPS is signaling closed at closed-idle position then fine, but I'd still check the continuity of the switch. Just because it "clicks" when you barely move the throttle linkage, doesn't mean contact is being made. The ecu needs that contact to know it can step down another step on the map. Sensor, internal, contacts get worn and loose with a lot of plugging and unplugging.
It doesn't sound like there's anything wrong with the fundamental rebuilding of components. You're flowing fuel, by the looks of the plugs, it's loading up at idle. Now what is telling it to load up at idle . Injector pulse ?, is controlled by ?, and what tells ?, how much to keep the injectors open ?. You've validated vacuum, everywhere .....check all the hoses including the ones that aren't hooked to the throttles.......you've validated that you're getting enough fuel.........enough to foul the plugs, and feed the motor's needs at high rpms, that's enough, or it would cough and spit, so without metering the fuel pressure we're assuming it's good.
I'm narrowing it down, in theory of course, as the coolant temp sensor gets warm it varies, much like an o2 sensor in temperature, and gives off different amounts of resistance, or voltage depending on sensor. It is directly connected to the ecu which is sending the pulse signals to the FI. Validate coolant temp sensor in a pan of hot water with the specs already given. Confirm continuity from coolant temp connector to ecu entry or pin connector. Do the same with TPS and wiring connectors.
One or the other, IMO, you got spark (plenty), you're getting fuel (too much w/ throttles closed), no vacuum leaks (I'm trusting you), motor's statically right, so that's what you've got. Bill, you gotta move closer so I can swing by and cut your tear down, build back time in half.....ya know I'm checking continuity for TPS function while you're boiling a sensor and checking resistances......that sort of stuff. Somethin's loading your plugs up. "That's all". Now get out there SUPERWRENCH and solve this mystery so I ain't thinking about your motor while I'm watching Shrek tonight at the movies........... GET BUSY BRAH !!!!
next lifetime maybe!
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