Good info, will do, thanks
What did you do to your other motorcycle today ?
- Thread starter c10
- Start date
Good info, will do, thanks
Try a large C clamp or two even and just crank them down till the bead let’s go. Or a big vise if you have one.
I got back to riding last week and was tooling all over the countryside on my RR, then yesterday I remembered the insurance had run out a couple of months ago so today I went online to the cheaper mob all my insurance is now with and they couldn't find my bike from the rego number? I looked around in the appropriate folder and sure enough I had ignored a final reminder, it was unregistered! A big no non down here. I had thought that reminder was for a 250 I was de-registering? Ahhh the pitfalls of owning too many bikes 
I used to keep the rego papers under the seat, I think I'll go back to that practice...
I used to keep the rego papers under the seat, I think I'll go back to that practice...
The C-clamps are a good idea.
I have seen that done before, but didn't stop to think about it...good call!
My Dad has several that are big enough.
As for now, I think the valve stem in it can wait until I need a new rear tire, lol, as I'm past fighting something unessacerily at this point.
Changing the rear pads on the Goldwing.
I cleaned off alot of gummed on brake dust, Brake-cleaned the rotor, measured it the width, well within spec, and almost no run-out at all.
But, between the crud, and these new EBC HH pads...I think it'll stop alot better now, lol
(already replaced the front pads, and they improved the stopping)
I cleaned off alot of gummed on brake dust, Brake-cleaned the rotor, measured it the width, well within spec, and almost no run-out at all.
But, between the crud, and these new EBC HH pads...I think it'll stop alot better now, lol
(already replaced the front pads, and they improved the stopping)
New rear brake pads in, caliper cleaned and mounted.
Rear wheel on, everything torqued to spec, and this Centramatic balancer thing off and in the for-sale pile.
I'll change the differential fluid tomorrow, and the rear will be done.
Finally had some time to make a little progress.
Rear wheel on, everything torqued to spec, and this Centramatic balancer thing off and in the for-sale pile.
I'll change the differential fluid tomorrow, and the rear will be done.
Finally had some time to make a little progress.
TallTom
Registered
Now I see why.
You have a trailer hitch installed. Now it all makes sense. Yes with a hitch installed I know the most popular way they change the rear is to lay the bike over on its side. Usually a blanket etc to protect it. Then the tire slides out.
Until I saw your hitch, I was stumped.
No, the hitch comes right off, with the 2 bolts circled in the previous picture, and the front ends attach to the side cases.
The hitch wasn't the problem, I just didn't see that the amp box would come out so simply, that's what was holding me up from rolling the wheel out the back.
TallTom
Registered
Not something to do on the side of the road when you get an unplanned flat tire.
You want to be able to make a repair and not tear the bike apart if you have to get a new tire.
I could remove the license plate/splashguard in about 2 minutes, which gives easy access to the tire, which is enough room for me to plug the rear tire(I always carry a plug kit and compresser). If a plug won't seal it, I'll just call for a ride and come back with a trailer, as I'm never more than a few hours from home.
The bike will be fine where ever it would have to sit in the meantime...nobody steals an old Goldwing, lol.
I have the best towing service for under $100 a year. They will tow whatever I’m riding or driving to wherever I have to go to get repaired w/o mileage charges. Just in case.
Changed the differential oil in the Goldwing, very easy, and it only took a few minutes.
I bought this pump top with clear hose years ago for a few bucks, and it threads into any oil bottle.
It makes jobs like this simple, and without making a mess.
The fluid in it was clean, and could not have been that old, so it was nice to see that the maintenance on this bike was kept up with, like the seller had told me.
And yes...that IS Walmart gear oil.
A friend of mine worked at a high-end auto shop for over a decade, lots of Euro-trash an exotics. The shop had oil anaylisises done on Techron a few times, and it always came back with great results.
None of the local autoparts stores had any 80w other than store brand either, and I'm not concerned about it.
I plan to buy a Henry's Final Drive differential for it in the future too, with a taller gear ratio, so first gear will be less tractor like, and cruising rpm's will drop 500-700.
I bought this pump top with clear hose years ago for a few bucks, and it threads into any oil bottle.
It makes jobs like this simple, and without making a mess.
The fluid in it was clean, and could not have been that old, so it was nice to see that the maintenance on this bike was kept up with, like the seller had told me.
And yes...that IS Walmart gear oil.
A friend of mine worked at a high-end auto shop for over a decade, lots of Euro-trash an exotics. The shop had oil anaylisises done on Techron a few times, and it always came back with great results.
None of the local autoparts stores had any 80w other than store brand either, and I'm not concerned about it.
I plan to buy a Henry's Final Drive differential for it in the future too, with a taller gear ratio, so first gear will be less tractor like, and cruising rpm's will drop 500-700.
TallTom
Registered
Alright so essentially about the same. I thought you'd have to remove the hitch assembly.
I do the same. Patch kit and compressor. Should repair 95% of the issues on the road.
Nice bike, I looked at the FTR but the small gas tank was a show stopper for me so I ended up with a Gen III Hayabusa :-)
I ordered a new oem thermostat and o-rings for the Goldwing, and more Engine-Ice.
I have to remove the right side radiator to access the other end of the damaged fuel line, so now is as good a time as any for a coolant flush.
And since the bike is 17 years old(42k miles) and I can get to the thermostat now(alot has to come apart on this thing), to me it's just good insurance.
I also got my Heli-bar invoice and paid it!
They said they expect to ship by the 22nd of this month!
I hope so, as I've been waiting for a couple months already...not that it would matter anyway, with the bike all apart, lol
I have to remove the right side radiator to access the other end of the damaged fuel line, so now is as good a time as any for a coolant flush.
And since the bike is 17 years old(42k miles) and I can get to the thermostat now(alot has to come apart on this thing), to me it's just good insurance.
I also got my Heli-bar invoice and paid it!
They said they expect to ship by the 22nd of this month!
I hope so, as I've been waiting for a couple months already...not that it would matter anyway, with the bike all apart, lol
TallTom
Registered
Damn I'm sorry you busted that line. But now I can ask you anything I need to know about a Goldwing.
Lol, I'll have had most of it apart by the time I'm done.
I sucessfully cut the 3 zipties that the PO had rotor cover lighting tied to that fuel line with(to remove the gas tank), and turning the side cutters as I lifted them out, a nice clean cut near the crimped metal end...I was in disbelife...Murphy was not...smh
Well, thankfully I’m not rebuilding an old Goldwing. 
I had the Honda’s side stand heated and straightened so now it doesn’t lean over so much. After the new monoshock was installed it leaned over waaay too much. The curve in the side stand was about 3/4” from being straight.
I had the Honda’s side stand heated and straightened so now it doesn’t lean over so much. After the new monoshock was installed it leaned over waaay too much. The curve in the side stand was about 3/4” from being straight.
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