Project "phoenix" has come to a halt...

Dood ya got a good insurance agent
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Dood ya got a good insurance agent
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HA! Don't get me started on those corn-foolios....


Only insurance available on a bike (if it's not brand-spankin new from the dealer) is liability.

Full coverage is only available if you got a squeaky-clean one from the dealer.


Tell me about fugged up, eh?
 
Hey Pac what fuel pump are you using,,, is it the pump that came out of your rusted tank??? Are you sure you have 43psi fuel pressure at your fuel rail? You could have a lazy fuel pump. If you did you would still smell gas, you should check the basics, make sure all 4 cylinders are firering, and make sure that you have good fuel pressure.
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Hey Pac what fuel pump are you using,,, is it the pump that came out of your rusted tank??? Are you sure you have 43psi fuel pressure at your fuel rail? You could have a lazy fuel pump. If you did you would still smell gas, you should check the basics, make sure all 4 cylinders are firering, and make sure that you have good fuel pressure.
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I'm hopin that it's somethin as simple as that, man.

I've been suspicious of that pump, but I haven't really checked it yet. Looks like I gotta try that test tonight.

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something else to check is your fuel lines i had one the other day a guy his bike wouldnt run brought it in and whenever you would lower the gas tank it would put a big kink in the line that you wasnt able to see, raise the gas tank up and it would run fine, rerouted the fuel line problem solved, just trying to bounce some ideas your way.
 
Hey Pac what fuel pump are you using,,, is it the pump that came out of your rusted tank??? Are you sure you have 43psi fuel pressure at your fuel rail? You could have a lazy fuel pump. If you did you would still smell gas, you should check the basics, make sure all 4 cylinders are firering, and make sure that you have good fuel pressure.
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Good lQQKn out Playa but I already instructed him how to check with measureing cup.
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Check all over for a vacum leaks. That's what it sounds like.

Do you have the plug wires on in the right order?

On the throttle bodies, are they seated with no gaps between them and the head? Make sure nothing is pinched.

Do the plugs look good?

Did you test the compression? If so, is all the cylinder PSI almost even?

Are all your lines and connectors hooked up in the right order?
How about the vacumm lines on the throttlebodies under the airbox? The ports that you hook a vacumm gauge up to, to sync the throttle blades. Make sure they're plugged or lined the way they need to be. Jinkster's "How to sync your throttle blades" how-to has a great description and pics on how these lines are supposed to run.

Maybe they're is still some gunk in the fuel lines. Remove it, use some carb cleaner and a air blower to clean it out. A few pieces of dirt in there can mess with the fuel system.
Also, check the fuel delivery throughout the fuel pump.

Is any of your ECU, throttle bodies or wiring of different years? An earlier ECU isn't friendly with any late model hardware. Make sure it's matched to the right year groups.

Was there ever any rags stuffed into the throttle bodies to keep dirt out of them that might of been sucked into the motor?(I've seen this first hand on a few cars)

I'd start with one area and work my way over everything that can interfere with the Busa's engine operation. Eliminate every possibility. Whatever is left over, no matter how remote or improbable has got to be the problem.


Pac, you'll beat this.
 
Also, make sure the 2 vent tubes at the rear of the tank are not clogged and that your tip over switch is in working order.
 
something else to check is your fuel lines i had one the other day a guy his bike wouldnt run brought it in and whenever you would lower the gas tank it would put a big kink in the line that you wasnt able to see, raise the gas tank up and it would run fine, rerouted the fuel line problem solved, just trying to bounce some ideas your way.
This is the tough one. I don't see any kinks...

Mebbe it's kinkin up when the tank is down, but the lines are in the same position as they were when the bike was running, so I don't think it'll be that.

Doesn't hurt to double-check, though. Although in my case, it would prolly be around the quintuple-check area.
 
Check all over for a vacum leaks. That's what it sounds like.

Do you have the plug wires on in the right order?

On the throttle bodies, are they seated with no gaps between them and the head? Make sure nothing is pinched.

Do the plugs look good?

Did you test the compression? If so, is all the cylinder PSI almost even?

Are all your lines and connectors hooked up in the right order?
How about the vacumm lines on the throttlebodies under the airbox? The ports that you hook a vacumm gauge up to, to sync the throttle blades. Make sure they're plugged or lined the way they need to be. Jinkster's "How to sync your throttle blades" how-to has a great description and pics on how these lines are supposed to run.

Maybe they're is still some gunk in the fuel lines. Remove it, use some carb cleaner and a air blower to clean it out. A few pieces of dirt in there can mess with the fuel system.
Also, check the fuel delivery throughout the fuel pump.

Is any of your ECU, throttle bodies or wiring of different years?  An earlier ECU isn't friendly with any late model hardware. Make sure it's matched to the right year groups.

Was there ever any rags stuffed into the throttle bodies to keep dirt out of them that might of been sucked into the motor?(I've seen this first hand on a few cars)

I'd start with one area and work my way over everything that can interfere with the Busa's engine operation. Eliminate every possibility. Whatever is left over, no matter how remote or improbable has got to be the problem.


Pac, you'll beat this.
Whew...this is gonna be a good one. Dayum.

haven't checked for vac leaks...don't exactly know how. Good place to start, though.

Plug wires in right order.

Nothin pinched on the TB's...they look to be seated properly.

Plugs are new...just replaced. Guess I'll pull them out and look again.

Haven't checked for compression. How would I do that? I'm hoping I don't hafta tear into the engine. That's a whole lotta work.

Lines and connectors are hooked up in the right order, I believe. Vac lines under the TB's and airbox appear to be ok. I hope I don't hafta synch the TBs...that looked real complicated.

Don't think there's any gunk in the fuel lines...they seemed to be clear. I'll check 'em again, I guess. Sigh.

Fuel delivery throughout the pump should be fine. At least, I think so. I hear it suckin gas from the tank, so that's a good thing. Oh gawd...please tell me I don't hafta take it apart again and remove the all the insides.

ECU is from a 99, as is the wiring harness. All matchin there.

No rags inside the TB's. Did my best to make sure that nothin got into the TB's. I knwo that's really bad juju for the engine.

Sigh...starting over again. Yay. Damnit....


Thanks, man...I appreciate the encouragement. I'm so tired of all of this, though. Fudge...
 
just so you know you can get a bad set of plugs from the store, i have done it before in my drag boat
 
Tell me about this compression testing and vac leak testing...

how would one go about doin that?
 
Yeesh! I hope you get this figured out. You've been rebuilding your bike, right?
yep...going on two years and $6400.
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Jesus.

I hope it is something as simple as a relay in the wiring harness, man. If it's a fuel delivery issue, there's a solution just around the corner. Testing with a damn multimeter can take forever though if you don't do it all day, every day for a living.

Perhaps there's an issue with the ECU wiring? The ECU controls the fuel delivery unless you've got a PC, right? To check the wiring you should be able to unplug the stock connectors under the tank and test with your volt meter, right?
Yah...I hope it's something as simple as that. I have a bad feelin about that multimeter...I'm all thumbs when it comes to electronics and wiring.


Stock connectors under the tank? You mean like the diagnostic plug an stuff?
Yeah, the plug for your injector rail. You should be able to check your voltage there, right?
 
No idle...no start. She'll crank over and sometimes try to start, but she won't maintain idle. She cuts out and sputters.

More stuff


I'm about ready to give up.
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Please....help a brother out.
Pac if I was you I would change things back to the last time it ran....then start your mods one by one till you find the thing that caused the problem. It does sound like a fuel issue of some kind tho. Hope this helps  
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no mods aside from the pair valve being removed and blocked off.

The external fuel filter was a neccessity, as the old one is already 7 years old. There aren't kinks in the fuel lines, though...and the lines are clear.


Gaaaah!!!
I don't mean to insult your abilities Busa but when you replaced the PAIR valve and block offs you did plug the vacuum line correct?

Just trying to help. Walk away from it for a while and let your thought process work it out.

You'll get it!

hogger...
I believe I did. Cut new gaskets when I put on the block-offs.

Plugged the hose outlet on the left backside of the airbox, plugged the outlet on the #4 TB...

I got that correct, right?
Pac, I believe facing forward from the rear of the bike, you need to plug the big hose outlet on the back of the right side of the airbox...not the left. Its closest to the idle adjustment screw. You mighta' unhooked/plugged the wrong hose......
 
okay...here's the answer. Your battery is falling below 12volts hence why it won't idle but it will crank. Add a charger to the battery and prove me wrong. It it starts with the charger connected.....problem solved.
 
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